Embarking on the Camino: Our Journey Begins in St Jean Pied de Port

As the first light of dawn stretched across the walled city of St Jean Pied de Port, our hearts brimmed with excitement. Nestled in the French Pyrenees, this charming town isn’t just a scenic destination—it’s the iconic starting point of the Camino Frances, the most famous of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes.

My husband and I had flown in from Australia to join close friends in beginning this extraordinary adventure together—an experience we’ll treasure for a lifetime.

A Town Steeped in History

After checking into our hotel in the heart of town, we wandered through cobbled lanes and soaked in the rich, medieval charm. The Rue de la Citadelle led us past stone walls that whisper centuries-old stories, while the Gate of St James stood as a powerful symbol of pilgrimage.

That evening, we collected our pilgrim’s passport, an essential memento that marks your progress on the Camino and grants you access to pilgrim accommodations along the way.

Day 1: A Journey of Endurance and Beauty
Distance: 24km | Elevation Gain: 1,400m | Time: 6 hrs 2 mins

Our first walking day was no small feat—28km in total, including a 12km climb and an elevation gain of 1,400 metres. Although it was physically demanding, the anticipation of what lay ahead gave us strength.

At the 6km mark, we reached Refuge Auberge Orisson, a popular rest stop where some pilgrims spend the night. For us, it was the perfect place for a coffee break, a toilet stop, and a chance to soak in the panoramic mountain views before pushing onward.

Lunch With a View—and a Blessing
At around 10km, we paused for a picnic beside the Statue of the Virgin Mary, a peaceful and powerful waypoint on the trail. Surrounded by the rolling hills of the Spanish Basque Country, we shared stories and sandwiches while chatting with fellow pilgrims from all over the world.

Across Borders Without a Border
Crossing into Spain was marked not by border control, but by the familiar ding of a mobile phone notification—a small but memorable moment. The scenery changed subtly, with undulating hills dotted with horses and sheep, leading us downward over rocky paths.

Roncesvalles: Where History and Hospitality Meet
Our descent into Roncesvalles was both triumphant and humbling. Waiting for us was a stunning 13th-century building—our hotel for the night, steeped in centuries of Camino history.

By day’s end, we had learned the universal phrase that links pilgrims around the world: “Buen Camino!” These two words carried warmth, encouragement, and a shared sense of purpose that transcended language and background.

More Than a Walk
As we reflected on our first day over dinner, we realised this was far more than a hike. The Camino offers a unique blend of physical challenge, cultural richness, and deep connection—to others, to history, and perhaps even to ourselves.

Day 2: Slipping, Sliding, and Movie Moments – Roncesvalles to Akerreta
Distance: 28km | Elevation Gain: 630m | Time: 7 hrs 31 mins

After a memorable first day, we woke up in Roncesvalles feeling surprisingly energised and excited for what lay ahead. One of the joys of the Camino quickly became clear: the incredible variety of people undertaking this journey. We walked alongside pilgrims of all ages and backgrounds, each with their own story and reason for walking.

But today had a twist: rain. Lots of it.

Early into the walk, we found ourselves on a trail that had transformed into a stream—mud, puddles, and water flowing freely beneath our boots. With laughter echoing through the hills, we dubbed it “El Creeko”—an impromptu name for what felt like a day spent trekking down a mountain creek.

Despite the slippery conditions, we managed to stay upright, navigating the muddy path with cautious steps and cheerful banter.

The route today was as stunning as it was challenging. From Roncesvalles, we journeyed through towering forests of oak and beech, into the picturesque village of Auritz / Burguete, and on toward Aurizberri / Espinal, where we grabbed supplies and took a short rest. The Alto de Mezquiriz and Alto de Erro mountain passes tested our legs, but the views were worth every step.

After a steep descent into the village of Zubiri, we crossed the legendary Puente de la Rabia—a medieval bridge once believed to cure animals of rabies if they crossed it three times. The stories and history embedded in every part of the Camino never cease to amaze.

A Magical Stay in Akerreta
We finally arrived in Akerreta—tired, muddy, but completely fulfilled.

That night, we stayed at the Hotel Akerreta, a highlight of the journey so far. This beautifully restored stone building, which features in the film The Way with Martin Sheen, has become a beloved stop for many pilgrims. With only 11 spacious rooms, the hotel blends historic charm with warm hospitality. It’s even home to the oldest chimney in Spain!

Run by a wonderful family who welcomed us with open arms and a home-cooked meal, it was the perfect way to end a challenging day. No wonder this place books out fast—if you’re walking the Camino, be sure to book early.

Day 3: Sunshine, Song, and the Spirit of Pamplona
Distance: 14km | Elevation Gain: 186m | Time: 3 hrs 30 mins

After two big walking days, we welcomed the chance to slow down a little. We followed the River Arga, its gentle flow guiding us through lush hills and ever-changing terrain. Around the 3km mark, we stumbled across a magical little riverside café—music drifting through the air, a guitarist playing, and pilgrims scattered across tables enjoying fresh coffee, pastries, and that warm feeling of community the Camino does so well.

The path today was delightfully varied—dirt trails, stone steps, trickling streams, and countless footbridges and historic churches along the way. The Camino markers—yellow arrows and the iconic scallop shell—were ever-present, making it almost impossible to get lost. The route is so well signposted that you can truly lose yourself in the moment and just walk.

As we approached Pamplona, the landscape gradually shifted from rural to urban. The rolling hills and quiet hamlets gave way to cobbled streets, bell towers, and the buzz of city life.

Welcome to Pamplona
Pamplona is a highlight of the Camino Frances and for good reason. Famous for its Running of the Bulls, the city offers far more than just its adrenaline-fueled festival. The Cathedral of Santa María, the Citadel, and the Museum of Navarra are must-see landmarks, and the 16th-century old town is bursting with history and charm.

Wandering through its maze of medieval laneways, ornate architecture, and bustling tapas bars, we found ourselves immersed in a completely new atmosphere. We capped off our day with a visit to Café Iruña, one of Hemingway’s favourite haunts, made famous in his novel The Sun Also Rises.

Where We Stayed
We checked into Hotel Europa, a centrally located hotel that gave us the perfect base to explore this incredible city.

Day 4: Hills, Harvests, and the Hill of Forgiveness – Pamplona to Puente la Reina
Distance: 24km | Elevation Gain: 450m | Time: 4 hrs 30 mins

Leaving the city behind, we walked through the heart of the Basque region of Navarre. We passed fields of snow peas, dill, and other fragrant herbs and vegetables, stretching across the countryside in vibrant, earthy greens.

One of today’s highlights was the Alto del Perdón, or Hill of Forgiveness. At the summit, we reached one of the most iconic and photographed sites on the Camino Frances—a striking metal sculpture of pilgrims etched against the skyline. It’s a place that stops you in your tracks—not just for the photo, but for the panoramic views back toward Pamplona and out across the valleys ahead.

From there, we descended into the ancient town of Puente la Reina, named after its medieval bridge that spans the River Arga. We stayed at Hotel Jakue, a welcoming and comfortable stop popular with many pilgrims.

Day 5: Vistas, Vineyards, and Roman Roads to Estella
Distance: 24km | Elevation Gain: 480m | Time: 4 hrs 50 mins

Today’s route was a peaceful walk through olive groves, vineyards, and rolling farmland. We stopped in Cirauqui, a dramatic hilltop village perched on a rocky outcrop, then walked along sections of an ancient Roman road—stone paths shaped by centuries of travel.

Reaching Estella, we sampled local delicacies, wandered the town’s medieval lanes, and visited the Church of Santo Sepulcro and Convent of Santo Domingo—beautiful testaments to the town’s rich history.

Day 6: Wine, Views & Camino Camaraderie – Estella to Los Arcos
Distance: 22.9km | Elevation Gain: 470m | Time: 4 hrs 40 mins

We began the day with a toast at Bodegas Irache, where a free wine fountain offers pilgrims a sip of local red wine. We chose a steep forest path early on that rewarded us with stunning mountain views and quiet moments of reflection.

Around the 15km mark, a coffee van appeared like an oasis—pilgrims gathered, stories were exchanged, and the Camino spirit was alive and well. Later, we passed a traditional metalwork shop showcasing the rich artisanal history of the region.

In Los Arcos, we stayed at Hostal Suetxe, a clean and cosy retreat with spa amenities. Another beautiful day on the Camino—marked not just by distance walked, but by friendships formed and stories shared.

Day 7: Farewell for Now – Los Arcos to Logroño
Distance: 28km | Elevation Gain: TBC | Time: TBC

Day 7 brought a mix of emotions. It was our final day on the Camino for this journey—a bittersweet feeling as we set off, knowing our adventure was coming to a pause. Though sad to be finishing, we took comfort in the belief that we will return. The Camino has a way of drawing you back.

Leaving Los Arcos, we soon arrived at the sleepy village of Torres del Río, where we explored a rare octagonal church, believed to have been built by the Knights Templar. The path then guided us through the rolling hills of the Rioja region, famous for its vineyards and bold red wines.

As we approached Logroño, the atmosphere shifted. The quiet trails opened into a vibrant town buzzing with life. Known for its festive energy, Logroño is a popular destination for celebrations—weddings, birthdays, and joyful gatherings. But beyond the party vibe, the city is rich with history and beauty. We wandered through San Juan Street, home to lively pintxo (tapas) bars, admired the Cathedral, and soaked in the local charm.

This final stretch reminded us of the incredible diversity of the Camino—from remote trails to bustling cities, from ancient bridges to modern celebrations. Every day offered new discoveries, shared laughter, unexpected encounters, and cherished memories.

Buen Camino—for now. We’ll be back.

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